News - from the Himalayas and home

Lhosar - Tibetan New Year 2137

So So-oo
Sang sang gelu, haar gelu
Letting go of the past
we look forward to a better future

February 14th is the start of the new year both in the Tibetan and Chinese calendar this year; being a lunar calendar it shifts around. This year is the year of the Male Iron Tiger, 2137. 
As with most celebrations food and drink form part of the celebrations and Sherpa houses are given a fresh coat of whitewash. In the villages the chalk is simply dug up from the hillsides, watered down and slapped all over the walls and anything and anyone else close by.
Local beer known as chaang which can be made out of corn, barley or rice and raksi (pure alcohol) are drunk as families get together to greet the new year. Offerings are made to local monasteries where the festivities are usually centred. Tsampa, ground roasted barley is thrown in the air and the call of So So-oo Sang sang gelu, haar gelu rings out.
On an Everest trek, I was in Khumjung on new years day. Blue skies and snow, it was magic to trek through the village and see the villagers stringing up new prayer flags on the icy shingle rooves with clouds of incense wafting up to the heavens and cries of sang sang gelu ringing out. The monastery has a yeti scalp locked away but the monk will happily take it out of the safe and show it. Winters are so cold there that potatoes are buried in pits in the ground to protect them from the frost. You haven't lived until you have eaten the local potatoes, small and yellow they are delicious. Best meal I ever had was fried potatoes, onion, garlic and cauliflower with turmeric, chilli and coriander. Yum and when you are trekking who cares about calories?
Mo-mos, small dumplings are another favourite food and can be easily made using packets of dumpling pastry and filled with minced chicken, fresh chopped coriander and a touch of chilli; just steam them for 10 minutes they are simply delicious.
Prayer flags are renewed at this time of year, old ones never being discarded and are either hung inside a building to increase the spiritual atmosphere or outdoors where the wind can carry their prayers. Sets of flags yellow, green, red, white, blue  represent the elements; earth, water, fire, cloud, sky. In the corners you may see the Dragon for power, the Tiger for confidence, the Garuda for wisdom and the Lion for joy. The central image is often the Wind Horse who carries the wish fulfilling jewel on his back. On his journey, he carries our prayers up to the heavens.
Above the village of Pheriche, there are prayers flags strung across the hillside with words in English and as I remember an image of Tara to commemorate an Italian lady who died in the region, what a wonderful memorial. 


Making raksi


White Yara
born from the tears of Chenrezig, she watches over us with eyes in her hands and the soles of her feet  ready to come to our aid.


Chorten at Pheriche
trekkers stay here an extra night to acclimatise to the altitude 4280m and get briefed on the dangers of altitude sickness.


Prayer flags over Lamjura pass

In my last newsletter I included some Bhutanese proverbs from a book called The Boneless Tongue
I was recently advised to Walk like a cat and sit like a rabbit; now it makes sense. Funny how things come around.
Bye for now, walk in peace and beauty, Marilynne Sherpa

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